Ducati guys--I don't wave at them either. Why don't they spend a little more money on their bikes? "You can have it in any color you want, as long as it's red." Aren't you cool! Like they even know what a desmo-whatever engine is, anyway. Try finding the battery, you Italian-wannabe racers! I never, ever wave at those guys.

Suzuki guys aren't much better, which is why I never wave at them, either. They always have those stupid helmets sitting on top of their stupid heads, and God forbid they should wear any safety gear. They make me so mad. Sometimes they'll speed by and look over at me and you know what I do? I don't wave. I just keep on going. Please, don't get me started on Kawasaki guys. Ninjas? What are you, twelve years old? Team Green my ass. I never wave at Kawasaki guys.

I ride a Honda, and I'll only wave at Honda guys, but even then, I'll never wave at a guy in full leathers. Never, never, never. Yeah, like you're going to get your knee down on the New York Thruway. Nice crotch, by the way. Guys in full leathers will never get a wave from me, and by the way, neither will the guys in two-piece leathers. And I'll tell you who else I'm not waving at -- those guys with the helmets with the loud paintjobs. Four pounds of paint on a two-pound helmet. Like I'm going to wave back to that! I'll also never wave at someone with a mirrored visor. Or helmet stickers. Or racing gloves. Or hiking boots. To me, motorcycling is a like a family, a close-knit brotherhood of people who ride Hondas, wear jeans and a leather jacket (not Vanson) with regular gloves and a solid-color helmet with a clear visor, no stickers, no racing gloves and regular boots (not Timberlands). And isn't that what really makes riding so special? ~ By Shalom Auslander

I enjoyed this article assuming it was from a satirical perspective. I do feel some embarrassment that Harley riders wave less than other riders do in general. I try to make up for that as much as possible when riding my Harley by making sure I wave well ahead of the approaching bike whatever it is. When parking someplace with other bikes I always go over to them and ask about their bikes etc etc. We do have a great commonality within motorcycling and should work to keep that facet alive. The Cade and Harley are away for the winter, but I'm currently riding the Yamaha DT400b on seasonally abandoned roads in the Adirondack region of New York. And, yes, I do wave to snow-mobilers and quad riders when out there too. ~ Chuck, '86 LX, '49 Harley, '76 DT400b

I was wondering if someone could inform me where and what the attachment points are for the Cavalcade hitch. (i.e.: muffler hanger, rear crash bar attach points or clamped to the rear crash bar assembly). I’ve built a trailer for the bike using the Rounded SEARS car top carrier, not quite completed YET but well on the way. I am also going to try and rig it so I can remove the box, install a rail and tow the bike on it, might even have to rig a heavier tongue for the bike towing part. Will keep you posted. ~ Walter

Several weeks ago some members were looking for a vest, could not find any. Maybe I can locate several if you will give me some description of what you want. I have located some in denim with not collar and two small pockets on the lower front. Please include the size. ~ Tom in Texas

'Caders, Good quality denim vests that work great for riding and carrying patches and pins are available from the Christian Motorcyclists' web site (cmausa.com) or over the phone (870/389-61960)...their prices include shipping and run from $33 (for S,M,L,XL) to $38 (XXL,XXXL). They also have good prices on leather vests for men and women. ~ Fred L. Meisenheimer

I hope someone out there can help me. I was replacing the chrome lower sections on the side cover (the side panel where a battery would go on smaller a motorcycle which I got new from Suzuki). You guessed it. On the left side cover I broke, not one, but both of the small pins that go up into the bottom of the seat. Luckily there is a third larger pin and the bottom screw that holds the whole side-cover panel in place. I checked with my local dealer and the plastic side panels are... of course, discontinued. So if anyone has or comes across a Gold side cover panel, or any side cover panel (in good-paintable condition) please let me know ASAP. Thanks, ~ Dan '86LX

Dan, Get some good epoxy made for plastic and glue them back in. Make sure to reinforce them well, though. You might even mix a little chopped fiberglass into the epoxy (cut the strands about 3/8 to 1/2" long). That really stiffens it up. Roughen all of the surfaces where the glue will contact with 60 or 80 grit paper to give it something to bite into. ~ Tracy

You can still repair that if you still have the parts. Several people in the group have recommendations on an epoxy. ~ HeyJerr

Dan, The pins on one of my covers were fractured when I purchased the bike, I used Airplane glue, Might give it a try. ~ Tom in Texas

Dan Duff, I have done this repair on my bike. The pins were broken off to the flat surface of the top of the side cover. I drilled a small hole large enough to accommodate a small stove bolt, which was as long as I wanted the new pin to be. I put it through the hole from the bottom side with the threads protruding up...ran the nut down to the surface of the side cover. Then I found a small piece of plastic/rubber tubing with an inside diameter the size I wanted the pin to be and cut it to the length I wanted. I mixed up a small amount of J-B Weld, held the tube in place over the protruding stove bolt (which made a solid inner reinforcing pin...and carefully filled the tubing. I left it for a day, then took a knife and cut the tubing off...used my Dremel tool to shape the resulting pin and was done. ~ Fred L. Meisenheimer

Hi Dan, this happened to me as well. You can drill small holes where the pins should connect and use black tie straps around the frame bars underneath the seat. It does keep them from vibrating. And you’re the only one that has to know. ride safe.. ~ Blake.86' LX

Dan, Another trick is to drill the broken pin out a little and use a self tapping screw with a bit of epoxy glue. Put the screw in from the cover side through into the drilled out broken pin. Works great. ~ Phil

Just a suggestion when you're removing these covers and anything that is fastened on with these pins and grommets. Take a small brush and coat the pin as well as the grommet it slides into with white lithium grease, make 'em a lot easier to get off next time and let's face it fellas, the rubber grommets are starting to dry up bout now. RIDE SAFE RIDE WARM (as possible) ~ Walter in Maryland

Guys, For all those worried about virus infection, those of us who subscribe to the Digest format do not receive attached files with the Digest; if we want to see any of the files attached to individual messages, we have to go to the Egroups site. While this is a pain at times when we want to see the pictures that members have sent, it also isolates us from those files with infections. So, if you want to be isolated from the potential infections, stay with the Digest mode. Andy Midland, TX

If you are not running an anti-virus program on your computer you are in continual danger of this type of problem happening. For a good anti-virus program that is free visit: http://antivirus.cai.com/

Once installed remember that your anti-virus program is only as good as the viruses it knows about. Check for new updates daily - it only takes a few seconds and can save you a lot of grief. In this program you can just select tools & auto-update to have it done for you. Regards, ~ Rick

Funny thing happened in the garage the other night. Went in to work on my cargo trailer I’m building for my bike. I had a 920 virago on one of those little battery warehouse trickle chargers plugged in to the bike and a drop light, unplugged the charger from the light, I went on with my project about 45 minutes later heard a firecracker sound, thought what heck (h---) iszat? I looked around and the battery had exploded on the virago, sitting all alone on the other side of the garage, did the unplugged charger do it? As it was still plugged into the bike and it's little green light was still on. Yea on of them kind! Guess I’ll never know as next time I’ll unplug both ends. Anyone else out there using one of these trickle chargers might take notice. Directions for use didn't forewarn of this. When you unplug the charger unplug the battery too!

Art: check the two black/white-striped wires that come off the neg. Side of the battery. They go into a double splice, which is just below the battery overflow. I had trouble with mine. The readings
were about the same as yours. I noticed that double splice was heating up causing a bad connection. I made a new splice and the readings jumped up where they're supposed to be. One of those black/white wires is the ground for the rectifier, and I’m sure has to work properly. Make sure that plug is good, make sure overflow for battery is hooked up as acid will get in that plug, also on chrome engine case. Have you tested the stator?? Real easy to test just hard to get to stator wire plugs. Any time i unplug a wire connection, i put a little lithium grease on the connectors, sort of cleans' em up when they go back together. Good luck ~ Walter in Maryland

Walter did anyone ever tell you, you'd make a great town crier spreading all the news. Keep up the good work -- often some of us get forgetful. Specially when you're as old as dirt. ~ Al

AL: Thanks for the compliment, but I too have senior moments. You never know when this list might come in handy, especially when you're driving an EDSEL. Street Rodders have them and they Have helped many a rodder out. Looking forward to Americade 2001 ~ WALTER in Maryland

Walter, Let's see... you ride a Cavalcade and you drive an Edsel. Do you own anything that's still being manufactured? Just wondering? ~ Jay

C'mon fellows, I don't really drive an EDSEL! But till I joined this group, at times when parts were needed or accessories wanted, or just info needed, this Behemoth may as well been an EDSEL. Jeez, you wonder when you ask the SUZUKI parts man to order a part and He asks WHazzat? Was talking to a GOLDWINGER the other day and HE ask WHAZZAT? I kindly informed that if Suzuki Hadn’t stopped making it, HE could PERHAPS know the JOY of ridden one, Where did he think HONDA got the idea for all the ginger bread????.

Have been wondering???? does the lights for the trailer necessitate larger fuses. I'm rigging my lights to work like the Cades, (separate turn light)I'm using a FOUR pin set up, that should let me hook this up to my van also.???? ANY feed back will be APPRECIATED.

Brian: I was going to have a separate ground wire from bike to trailer. So I could use the white as a turn signal for one of the separate turn lights. Then when I hook the 4 pin to my van, the turn signals will only show up in my red lights. I went this route as, I have a new 4 pin, and all my other vehicles have a 4-pin connector. Although I also like Kenn’s suggestion. Think about it, as I'm also rigging this trailer chassis soooo I can remove the box, Install a rail and tow, IF need be the Cade on trips with mama, as she don't do bikes. I built the chassis to tilt. And with a 2 1/2 inch dropped axle so she’s low to the ground. Had one occasion I had to load her (Cade) in pick'em up. It ain't easy. This way should one of ya be in my neck of the woods, need a tow or if I need to haul a bike I already got the rig. I don't like just a ball and chain ground either. ~ Walter

Walter, If you're gonna do separate turn lights from brake lights, I’d recommend using a 5 pin connector. L. turn, R. turn, brake, running, and ground. I don’t believe in getting the ground from the ball, especially when it’s normally greasy and/or loose enough to make turns. Just my preference. ~ Brian

Walter, I use a #TAP970 TAP power converter. This box takes two leads from the battery to the box and then you tap in the lights like normal. What this does is take power from the battery to power the trailer lights. That way there's no extra draw or strain on the vehicle system. No worry about bigger fuses etc. Mine works like a champ. I bought it at trailer sales for $35. The ones I've seen in the auto stores go $70+. Check it out , I think they're well worth money. ~ Kenn

Walter, I could use the white as a turn signal for one of the separate turn lights, then when I hook the 4 pin to ma van, the turn signals will only show up in my red lights, ..........

This won’t work because the left and right red lights for brake light will be hooked together for the bike. also the white wire on your van will be hooked to ground, only way to do what you want do is hook left red and left amber together and right red and right amber together. If you want both red to come on for brakes and ambers to come on for turn signals, you will need 5 different wires. if you want to hook up to van, you will need to make yourself a 5-pin to 4-pin adapter. Hope I didn’t make things clear as mud. ~ Brian

Brian you're soooo right, What was I thinking? A recount shows I do need 5wires, and the b was supposed to be a P. OOOh well, glad you caught it, guess that's why they made an adapter box for this. Thanks for the review. ~ Walter

Walter, several have mentioned here that they use a separate fuse panel. I put one in a couple of years ago. Simple five-fuse panel powered by a relay activated by the IGN. switch. Then run the wiring to your accessory light switches, then to your extra lights, or trailer or whatever. I think it is a lot easier on the electrical system overall. ~ Denny Potoczky, South Bend, IN

The lights on a trailer should not pull enough wattage for you to need to change the fuses. ~ Budman

I found a site that has a voltmeter for $19.00 see http://www.evoluzione.net/ and click on Ducati products. ~ BobL

Bob you always amaze me -- you have a Honda as does your son, used to have a Cavalcade and you find a Volt Meter on a Ducati site? ~ Al

A little more expensive but they have more meters.. http://www.i4cproducts.com. ~ BobL

http://www.electricalconnection.com/meters_indicators/bm.htm, this same thing is at Radio Shack for $9.95 I think. ~ Brian in

A month or two ago someone posted the method to use a sealed battery in the Cavalcade with two 33K ohm resistors. My question, would two 330K ohm resistors work? Seems as they would reduce the drain on the battery while still providing the same voltage at the junction. Thanks in advance. ~ Jim in Utica, Ohio, '86 LX

Hello Jim, I was not the sender of the original information but have found this works on my Cade. The 33 K value is light enough to not run down the battery. But there is a small amount of current needed by the OK module to monitor the battery that makes the value needing to stay lower. The 33 K ohm values seem to be just enough to provide the small current for the monitor and yet high enough in value to not run the battery down. The memory in the AM/FM radio draws more than these resistors do. It is my recommendation that a "trickle" type of charger be used as has been outlined previously. Happy New Year to you and to everyone on the list. Ride safe and keep up the email, I read them all, even though I do not post often due to my travels. ~ Curt

Hi Jim, I'm the one that posted that message about the resistors and the battery. Any resistance larger than the 33K would not power the monitor. The voltage is there with larger value resistors but not the amperage. I've had mine hooked up since early summer with no problems. I usually charge the battery once a month during down time (winter). I use a 1/2 amp charger for 10 to 12 hours and disconnect it when the charging voltage is around 15 or 15.5 volts. You will like the no maintenance battery, it has a higher cranking amp rating and amp hour rating. Plus, you do not have to remove all the screws to check the battery water!
If you have any questions send me an e-mail. ddthomas@arbbs.net. Happy New Year! ~ David, 86 LXE

Thanks for the info. I had an idea that the current requirement may be more than the larger resistors would allow, but it's nice to know before trying something someone else already has. I've seen in previous that some have used the Yuasa sealed battery. I'm not ready to replace my battery yet but plan on getting the sealed battery when necessary to make the change. Someone could save me time if they can tell me which model number to get. Thanks ~ Jim in Utica, Ohio, '86 LX

Hi Jim, I installed the sealed battery last July, 2000 in my Cade. Works great! The Yuasa number is, YIX50L-BS. Good Riding! ~ David, 86LXE

Funny thing happened in the garage the other night. Went in to work on my cargo trailer I'm building for my bike. I had a 920 virago on one of those little Battery warehouse trickle chargers plugged in to the bike and a drop light, unplugged the charger from the light went on with my project about 45 minutes later heard a firecracker sound, thought WHAT HECK iszat? I looked around and the battery had exploded on the virago, sitting all alone on the other side of the garage. DID THE UNPLUGGED charger do it? As it WAS still plugged into the bike and it's little green light was still on. YEA, one of them kind. I guess I'll never know as next time I'll unplug BOTH ends. Anyone else out there using one of these trickle chargers might take notice. Directions for use didn't forewarn of this. WHEN YOU UNPLUG THE CHARGER UNPLUG THE Battery TOO! ~ WALTER in Maryland

I'm hoping these next comments/questions will spark some discussion. I live in an apartment complex that does not have electrical outlets in the carports. Therefore, I cannot run a battery tender to it. I try to start the bike every week or so and let it run long enough to warm up and, hopefully, charge the battery. I let it go approximately two weeks this last time and it didn't have enough juice to start. I jump started it from my truck battery but did not have the truck running. I was able to ride it for about an hour and a half, but I still took the battery out later and charged it overnight in my apartment. I put it in the bathroom with the window open and an exhaust fan on. So I ask; 1. Can I damage the bike by jump starting from a non-running vehicle? 2. How long should I charge the battery using a 2 amp charger? 3. How long should I run/ride the bike to keep it charged? 4. Where is that switch to turn off the memory for the CB? As always, your comments are welcomed and appreciated. ~ HeyJerr 86 LXE San Jose, Calif.

Jerr: A few opinions about some of these items:
1) Charging from a non-running vehicle: I think that once in a great while would be OK if necessary, but don't get in the habit of it. A car or truck battery likely has much higher amperage than the bike battery and may cause damage to the electronics. This is my opinion rather than fact, so if I am mistaken, someone please let me know...
2)The CB Memory switch is located next to the headlight. Standing in front of the bike, reach under the headlight/fairing past the horn and it should be on your right. It is a toggle switch. You may have to feel around for it...
The others I am not sure about, but someone will know :) ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Jerr, a few years ago I destroyed a Honda battery using a car battery so I definitely recommend against it. As for how long to charge your battery with a battery charger? I think the Cade battery is rated at about 17 amp/hours if I remember correctly and it will lose about 1/2 its charge every 2 weeks sitting in cold weather such as New England. To avoid over charging I've been told not to charge more than 3/4 of its rated capacity. With a 2-amp charger that would be a maximum charge time of about 6 hours if it had been
sitting for 2-3 weeks. That would be 6 hours at 2 amps/hr = 12 amps. Personally I would much rather ride the bike to charge the battery it that's an option. ~ Al from mass

S. Baker: To answer your question. If you are going to jump-start a motorcycle do not do it from a running car/truck. When they are running, their charging system is putting out too much power for any motorcycle. You can jump it from the battery as long as it is not running because then you are only pulling enough power required to do what you need. Hope this helps regards ~ mike c., 86lx

I don't know if the other vehicle was running or not, but one jump-start blew out the headlight. Since then I have taken the headlight fuse out before jump-starting. ~ SRB 86

I need some help. I've replaced stator and regulator but bike sat for approx. 5 months. I put battery on charger and charger says it ok. But when I check charging system it only shows 11.3amps.at idle, at 5000rpm it went to 11.39. Does this mean something else is wrong or did battery die sitting to long.
thanks for any help. ~ Art

I had a couple of those blind nuts get loose on the black portion OF the battery side inner cover and was able to replace them with clip nuts /spring nuts and a sheet metal screw. Some of that plastic has hardened and cracked. I'm going to try and fit a new piece of plastic, that will allow me greater access to the battery, and much simpler removal, I have been experimenting with that black plastic that they make the mudflaps for the pick up trucks, out of. found a large set in local auto parts store same thickness. Through the years of sun and brake fluid drops, the box covers were dull in spots, I covered them in grained vinyl look like factory, and much easier to keep clean, and decent looking. If anyone is interested in the plastic It’s the large FLAT plastic flaps, not the rubber ones or the formed ones. ~ Walter

Last year someone was looking for a motorcycle lift they saw at the IMSS show in Toronto. The vendor was back this year - Pit Bull Motorcycle Lifts www.pitbullmotorcyclelifts.com. Hope this helps! ~ Rick

Dear Jay: I visited the Cavalcade site and enjoyed the pictures and stories. After reading your Christmas letter, I became curious about the differences between the Suzuki and the Honda that made you such a loyalist. Without going in to great detail, what is it about the Suzuki that made it superior to the Honda, and why was it so much more expensive? Cordially, Brent

Jay, A couple thoughts, we are all previous Edsel owners, the Cade was more expensive because it was way ahead of it's time with features Honda didn't think of until they saw them on a Cade, the Cade is still a superior ride, and we are a "different" breed. My primary reason was the shifting arrangement. With my stiff leg I have only found two that are comfortable. Suzuki & Harley. ~ Steve Baker

Hi Guys, You don't hear from me often, But, I do have an opinion on GoldWing vs. Cavalcade. I do have the luxury of having one of each. The Cav. is much more comfortable and has much more room for the passenger with lots of passenger comforts. I am able to ride my Suzuki much further with no discomfort!!!! The Wing has its pluses but we are not talking about that are we. Hoping for an early spring. Don 86 decked out ~ Don Desilets LXE

Hi Everybody, At the risk of sounding like I've gone completely off my rocker during my absence, I have a question for you. I'm sure Nancy and Mike will want to have me committed and Jay and Tracy will distance themselves from me, but here goes: Do any of you know of anyone who makes small helmets suitable for small dogs? Actually, the dog is a miniature Dachshund. I've seen some on TV (Animal Planet), but can't seem to find anyone who knows where to get them. I appreciate any help you can give. Good riding, ~ Bob Ramsey, Orlando, Florida

Bob, I've been thinking of your dog and the need for a helmet. I think I have the answer -- forget the helmet just equip one of the side trunks with a roll cage and an air bag. ~ Al from Mass

Would that be a full face, 3/4, 1/2 or just the skull cap We’ll need to know, as a full face for the dachshund, might be hard to find. I really did see a guy here in Annapolis, riding a cat on his tank, had a carpet velcroed for the cat to hang on and one of those little football helmets on it. LET US KNOW NOW as with this group I’m sure the search is on. LOL AND SOMEONE WILL find it. KEEP us GRINNING
RIDE SAFE you and Shorty. ~ WALTER, the guy with the HANGING Cade.

Bob; saw your email. Don't know where you could get a helmet, but how about a leather one? You know, sort of like the kind worn by old time football players, pilots, auto racers, etc. If one is not available a half-decent leather smith should be able to fabricate one for you. One thing.... my brother used to take his miniature Daxie with him when rode the Cavalcade!! He used to bungee one of those plastic milk boxes on the rear seat and Damien couldn't wait until they went riding!! He loved it!! They had a leather jacket made for the dog... good thing too! One time when they were on a rally in New York State, His wife was following on her bike and my brother hit an unnoticed pothole.. the bike went up and poor Damien went flying.. right out of the box!! He came down on the pavement, rolled a couple of times and was still. They rushed him to the nearest Veterinarian's office...a few x-rays later...no broken bones and all his internal organs were where they supposed to be. He had just a few bumps and scratches. The Vet said if it weren’t for the leather jacket (holding everything together, like they do for us) the story would definitely had a different ending. Good luck on your search ~ Boomer

Hey Group, Many of us have known for a long time that our Cavalcade were/are special machines. But today the state of Pennsylvania has made it official.... Earlier this month I applied for and today I received a "Classic" plate for my cavalcade. The classic plate does not ever have to be renewed - lifetime plate. To get a Classic plate in the state of Pennsylvania a vehicle must be a minimum of 15 years old and look original. It can not be used for daily driving. ~ Dan, "Classic" '86 LX

The classic plate does not ever have to be renewed - lifetime plate.

Are there any rules you need to follow, or guidelines for insurance, etc.? ~ Gerry in NY

Dan, the idea of a classic plate sounds great, but the part about not being able to drive it daily is a bummer. ~ Al

Pssssst Al, *looking side to side and whispering* How are the powers that be gonna know? probably check the mileage...I guess. Dan in D/FW

Who's to say how much you really ride it? Here in NY State nothing of value can be driven daily! What was your cost?

Anyone heard from Spike lately?? Remember he's the one claimed to be a rocket scientist. Sure hope he didn't hang himself with those 8ft hose he had hanging up trying to bleed his clutch. SPIKE iffin yer still around drop us a line now and then. HOW you DOIN??
Here's ol Spike. However I prefer *middle aged* Spike, if you don’t mind... I turned 40 couple months ago... Ol spike is having a time trying to keep the career from consuming my life. Funny too, how I struggled through the earlier years of my career, trying to build, learn, grow, all that stuff you are supposed to do. Now I realize there is more to life. Such as riding the Cade.

Update on the Cade: if you recall I was hearing a noise coming from the drive so I ended up tearing that thing all apart without ever finding anything wrong, other than the secondary drive oil plug, fixed that. While I had that all apart I was dinking with the clutch, fumbled a bottle of brake fluid, did 100 bucks wortha damage to my fairing. Actually more than that: I bought a 100 dollar part and decided I could live with the other cosmetic damage, for you see, in the insanity of real estate prices in Santa Clara county, a rocket scientist is, well, lets just say a lower class citizen.

Be that as it may, mechanically everything appears to be in great shape now. Al LenoMe@aol.com and I toured around the bay a few weeks ago. While the east was buried under snow at Christmas, I kept quiet back here, because we were having some of the most beautiful weather you ever saw. I was off work two weeks, and every day except one of those was clear, calm and temperatures in the 60s. Consequentemente...
I was out on the Cade. I didn’t post anything to the list about it because I figured you guys didn’t need to hear some Taxifornia twit bragging about how great the weather is back here. For the record, I went somewhere on the Cade every day between December 22 and 2 January with the exception of Christmas
Day, when I was distracted by family obligations.

Last weekend I made a run down the coast in anticipation of a tour to Furnace Creek in Death Valley a few weeks hence, should all work out for me.

I’m still reading the list, in digest form. For HeyJerr, I would comment that I have jump-started the Cade off of a car battery countless times. I don’t see why it would hurt anything: twelve volts is twelve volts.
Secondly, I added a battery isolator switch after discovering that I was draining the battery at about 6 milli-amps with the key off. Don’t know why, shouldn’t be much above 3 mA. {At 6 mA, a Cade battery won’t start ya after about 3 weeks.}

While I was doing that, I added an access wire to the positive terminal and brought it out from a vent in that compartment on the right side of the fairing. Now it is very easy to access the battery with a charger: connect one side to that wire, the other to anything that is grounded, such as a shiny part of the frame. Then I bought a small trickle charger and connected it to the light in the garage, the one that stays on for a couple
minutes whenever you hit the garage door opener. So now it gets a couple minutes charge a couple times a day.

Turns out, I don’t need the charger if I use the isolator switch, and I don’t need to use the isolator if I use the charger. This year I need neither because the Cade is seeing much more regular service than it has in several years. The bike hasn’t sat un-started for more than two weeks since October when I got the shaft debacle solved.

Because of the positive feedback from the list (rocket scientists are suckers for positive feedback) I have
generated some more Cade poetry, which I will post in the next few days. Right at the moment however
I must get off the confuser, for the hour is late and I have a meeting at 0830. Carry on, my friends! ~ ol spike

For anyone interested, you can make a really nice looking driving light bar for a Cavalcade, by using a driving light bar for a gold wing 1200. With about one hour of work will have you with a driving light set-up that looks as good as any. The gold wing 1200 light bar is cheap from JC Whitney and takes only a few minutes with a hacksaw to get ready. Other Caders' I have met look at mine and ask where I found a driving light bar for a Cade, and when I show them how I made it work they have all said " why didn't I think of that ". Picture to follow: as soon as I get the scanner working. ~ Bill Brooks " The Tennessee Light Show " 86LX, Dark Cherry

I misplaced who it was on the group that had an arrangement with a chroming place. I 'd like to perhaps get my brake & clutch master cylinder and levers done. If whoever it was would email me, thanks. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 lxe, South Bend, IN

I have a bit of a problem and was wondering whether anyone else has had this happen, I had my dealer install progressive fork springs in my early 86 Cade. He had them on and test rode it and found the fork travel shortened by 3 " or so. He said it bottoms if you run over a moderately high curb, but feels very firm otherwise. Is this normal? The spring kit contained spacers that were installed as well. Thanks, ~ Brett in Toledo

Brett, I put Progressive springs in my 86 last fall had what seemed to be the same problem with shorter travel. I found out everything is OK. The old springs where just that worn out. ~ Tom

Hey Brett, I had Progressives added to the front forks and had the same problem. My mechanic (added) those spacers you mention. That was a mistake. Use only the spacers in the kit and throw away the old ones that were in the fork tubs. It rides great now. Happy Trails. ~ Al, California...ÖjÖ

I had the same thing, I had the Progressive kit installed and they also came with the spacers, I had the same problem as you, my cure? I had them taken back out. ~ John Putnam

Thanks for the help on these springs, I learned a lesson and maybe this will save someone else from repeating it. First make sure your mechanic is completely familiar with Suzuki cavalcade forks; don't assume that because they are the largest dealer/shop that they know what they are doing. Second make sure they have installed after market shocks and know what to do to get them in right. I had to take the bike in and let them try to install the springs and when they didn’t work out they suggested I go back to the stock springs, so that 's what I did. Bike is essentially as it was when I took it in there. The shop blames Progressive, and Progressive blames the shop. I blame myself for not CYA! I really need the air cushion in the seat now right? I just wish it were doughnut shaped, total cost for labor and parts $288. Plus renting a U-Haul each way $45.00 let's just say I have been fully educated. Still have a great ride at least. ~ Brett 86 Cade in T-TOWN OHIO

Hey Guys: Is it possible to remove the fork cap and get to the front springs without taking the forks out of the frame? I wanna check something out... Also, I am pretty sure about this, but does the Cade have an anti-dive control in the fork? Thanx guys! ~ Brian, 87LXE in CT

Kenn is going to re do the STATE by STATE list and anyone that wasn't on the original one should consider getting on this one. This list is a state by state list of members and services you could render should one of you break down or plan a trip to your neck of the woods. This list could be very beneficial to you, should you be miles away from home and need a fellow CADERS shoulder to help you out. The message prior to this one has Kenn’s E-MAIL address for you to get the info you need to sign up. THIS LIST IS FOR MEMBERS ONLY AND WILL NOT< WILL NOT be released on the net or publicly. THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN GET A COPY IS BE A MEMBER<AND REQUEST IT. FOR everyone on the first list I am going to send Kenn a copy of that one. SIGN UP RIDE SAFE RIDE CONFIDENT ~ WALTER IN MARYLAND

Talk it up for me Walter. If they want on just have them send an E-mail to kgdd@rochester.rr.com. I'll send them the info I need and they can send it back. That way I get them in my address book and mail list all at once. Like I've said before, this list will NOT be sent out for the general public. Only people ON the list and people in the group who ask will receive it. Thanks for the offer to send me back the list. I had on saved but couldn't convert it back to a database. Believe me, when I get this monster done again it will be on a backup disk all by itself. Later ~ KennG

Send an E-mail to kgdd@rochester.rr.com. I'll send you the info I need and you send it back. After that, you're on the list and the mailing list. I'll send you a list and an updated version whenever it's updated. Kelly, this is a list of Caders, by Caders, about Caders and only available to the list of Caders. Info I need, State, City, first name & first initial of last name, area code & phone number, and then by letter, help codes off a list. Talk with you later. ~ KennG

Good idea this State by State list. Although I probably will not be of any assistance I can only offer my
support whenever you need some in Europe. I am a new visitor to this newsgroup so first let me introduce myself: My name is Berend J. Lindeman, 49 years, live in the Netherlands. Approx. 5 miles north of Amsterdam. Married, 2 sons (21 and 23) Last November/December compared bikes, Kawasaki Voyager, Yamaha Venture, Honda GoldWing and.... the Cavalcade. Have been test-riding all of them but the first ride on the Cavalcade set my final choice, so ... last December bought a 88 blue Cavalcade, have been
riding it every day and love it. The bike is standard; I do not plan to add too many accessories. Also ride a Yamaha FJ1200 (when I want to speed, 150 mls/hr, this is a nice machine to do so) a Yamaha XS1100 and a 1951 BMW 250cc.

In the Netherlands it’s winter too, not real cold, around freezing and some snow. No real problems. I will get back (possibly with some pictures) but for now: whenever you get to Europe, just let me know. ~ Berend "Super Smurf" Lindeman

Yes Brian, You can still get the fairing screws from the dealer.... I think you’ll need 17 for both sides plus 4 small ones. ~ Jim Kelly 86 lx

I've got a problem. I'm unable to adjust the forward and reverse movement of the trunk...What is supposed to move it? If it's the handle it's frozen (stuck) and can't be squeezed...I lubed it up with WD-40 with no luck. Do I need to disassemble or remove the trunk? ~ Dan in D/FW TX

Dan, I've got the same problem. While I've not yet tackled a number of things I want to do (maybe before Feb 17th Experienced Rider Course in Odessa!), I have had the opportunity to look at the cabling under the rack. My initial investigation showed that some of the nuts that adjust the cable (like the old brake/clutch adjustments) have come loose. Since my wife doesn't ride with me, I've not yet had the reason to make the repairs. I will be removing the box, lubing the cables, making adjustments, then will Locktite the nuts in place. Hope this helps. ~ Andy Midland, TX

Dan, as you are looking at the back of the trunk - under the right side you can see where the cable is supposed to pull on a bar that pivots down. When it pivots a square pin comes out of a notch allowing the trunk to move forward and backwards. You can with a screw driver or piece of wood pivot the bar from under the trunk - you do not have to take anything apart to get it to work that much. I've done it. Not using the adjustment for a long time causes it to freeze I think. There are adjusting nuts on the cable at the pivoting bar, but have not had any luck getting the cable handle to work. With the aid of wd-40 I have loosened it up enough so I can pivot the bar by hand without using the handle. I don't use it very often since I usually ride alone. Just lube it now and then and move it by hand to keep it (the pivot bar) moving freely. Good luck, ~ Al from Mass

Dan, I experienced the same problem and used force on the cable until it broke. Moisture gets in the cable housing and causes it to rust. This is one item that most of us forget to lubricate when servicing. The dealer was able to order me a new cable and it is simple to replace. ~ Tom in Texas

If you reach under the trunk and find the release, you might be able to trip it by hand and make your adjustment. I'm pretty sure the whole thing can be removed and freed up outside the bike. Good Luck ~ KennG

Dan, On mine the cable was rusted. I took it off and lubed it and worked it real good and it loosened up nicely. If it doesn't, you'll need to replace it. ~ Denny Potoczky, 86 LXE, South Bend, IN

Dear Cavalcade Rider: Hello. This is Shimpei Miwa, maybe the only Cavalcade ride in Tokyo. I have been off my Cavalcade for a while but decide to roll on again. I have taken the carburetor apart to clean some clogged jets etc. and while doing that, I have noticed that the diaphragm and the rubber hoses are getting out of shape. The diaphragm is not as soft and supple as it used to be and the rubber hoses are getting hard. I would like to replace them with new parts but do not have the parts number to them. Would anybody tell me the parts number for the following items? I ride a LXE (probably 87-89). Diaphragm Carburetor breather hose Rubber hose that connects the carburetors and coasting valves. Thank you! ~ Shimpei Miwa, Tokyo, Japan, E-mail: cavalcade@goldwing.to

Editor’s Note: Shimpei is not really a new member. He has been with the group since quite early on. I put his letter here because he has not written for quite a while and most members may not have realized that we have what may be the only Cavalcade owner in Japan as part of our group.

Welcome Shimei, what a pleasant surprise to hear from Japan. I recently read about how difficult it is to get a license to ride anything over 400cc. I believe there are different licenses. Please write and let us know if this was accurate. I read things all the time only later to find that I have the facts all mixed up. Any relatives here in New Jersey. My very good friend has family in Japan and always invites me to visit them when he travels home. ~ Bob in Jersey

Walter, Good idea this State by State list. Although I probably will not be of any assistance I can only offer my support whenever you need some in Europe. I am a new visitor to this newsgroup so first let me introduce myself: My name is Berend J. Lindeman, 49 years, live in the Netherlands. Approx. 5 miles north of Amsterdam. Married, 2 sons (21 and 23) Last November/December compared bikes, Kawasaki Voyager, Yamaha Venture, Honda GoldWing and.... the Cavalcade. Have been test-riding all of them but the first ride on the Cavalcade set my final choice, so ... last December bought a 88 blue Cavalcade, have been riding it every day and love it. The bike is standard; I do not plan to add too many accessories. Also ride a Yamaha FJ1200 (when I want to speed, 150 mls/hr, this is a nice machine to do so) a Yamaha XS1100 and a 1951 BMW 250cc. In the Netherlands it winter too, not real cold, around freezing and some snow. No real problems. I will get back (possibly with some pictures) but for now: whenever you get to Europe, just let me know. ~ Berend "Super Smurf" Lindeman, Email: lindeman5@zonnet.nl

Welcome Berend, my name is Gerald Menting My parents are from the Netherlands so if you meet someone with the same last name it's a relative of mine. Welcome to a great group, all are ready to give good advice and help with your bike talk to you later. ~ Gerald 86LXE

I'm from Fayetteville, AR. NW part of state. I have an 86 Cav. We would like let all know if you’re in my air space. Let me know. My phone no. (501-521-3956H. OR 501-443-5777 w. email at -- khrompaint@yahoo.com---- khrompaint@netscape.com.Say I collect MC. plates. I would be interested in any plates you may have. Later-