Suzuki Cavalcade Newsletter

SUZUKI CAVALCADE OWNERS GROUP NEWSLETTER
July, 2005 (Yup Late Again, Sorry)

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RIDES AND EVENTS: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2005: CADE RAID EAST “RIDE THE TAIL OF THE DRAGON”

2005: CADE RAID WEST “ YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK ”

Time is closing in on the twin Cade Raids coming up in early September. Pick the rally you want to enjoy and contact the organizers for details including the daily ride schedules and registration information.

For the East Coast Cade Raid you need to contact Larry Dilldine: Grubfodder@aol.com

EAST COAST RIDE SCHEDULE

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Monday Ride to Asheville , along the Blue Ridge , via Smokey MT National Park

Tuesday 13th, Ride to Chimney Rock, supper at the Mountain State Fair, in Asheville , food and music.

Wednesday Ride to Barters Theater, for 2 PM play, ( Abingdon VA , lunch at the Hardware Store), ride to Lenoir , NC , supper in Blowing Rock

Thursday, 15th, Ride from Lenoir , NC , to Bedford , VA , picnic lunch on the Blue Ridge , supper at the train depot in Bedford

Friday, Ride from Bedford to Front Royal on the Blue Ridge and the Skyline Drive with stops along the way. Lunch at big Meadows Lodge

Saturday, 17th, Ride the Shenandoah Valley still looking for location to ride to, a festival or event,, nothing final yet, but there will be food involved

WEST COAST RIDE SCHEDULE

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An easy day … recover from the ride to Yellowstone & get to know other Caders. Attend Tracy ’s workshops or ride the back roads to West Yellowstone for some shopping and to visit the Grizzly Bear Park and Yellowstone Visitor Center .

Tour North Loop of Yellowstone Park : Gibbon Falls , Steamboat Geyser, The Norris Geyser Basin , Mammoth Hot Springs , Roosevelt Lodge, Tower Fall, Canyon Village , Upper & Lower Yellowstone Falls . Return via Norris & Madison Junction (Miles = 150)

Tour South Loop of Yellowstone Park : Firehole Canyon Drive , Lower, Midway & Upper Geyser Basins , Old Faithful Geyser & Lodge, West Thumb & Grant Village , and Fishing Bridge . Return via Canyon Village , Norris & Madison Junction (Miles = 165)

Ride both sides of the Grand Tetons, visit Upper & Lower Mesa Falls , Warm Springs, Teton Pass & Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and return via southern portion of Yellowstone Park .

If you are planning a ride, rally, or other motorcycle event

of interest to the membership of the Suzuki Cavalcade Owners Group, send the information to jay@treefarmtapes.com and it will be posted in the next issue of this newsletter.

While going thru the "Links" part of the "SuzukiCavalcade" site I found a vendor that I am familiar with. The Chrome Shop. They are located here in Rock Island . I have done biz with them for both bike and truck parts and just thought (a dangerous proposition at best!) that you should know that they are worth every penny. They are stinkers for detail and have never let me down. ~Steve Wilker

Has anyone ever ordered a windshield from ClerViewShields in Bailey , CO ? ~KennG

Hey, KennG......Willie here...You will be getting the BEST windshield available, in my opinion....I've had one of these (with 3" added width to each side, no additional height...although he will add height also if you want it) on my 'Cade since 1990, got it when they were in (I think) Golden, Co.,......It is still absolutely clear with no swirl marks, no hazing, but shows dinks from stone impacts from 136K miles of use....I was so impressed with this shield (compared to the stock Suzuki (coated) shield and also compared to other aftermarket shields) that I bought another for my '89 Gold Wing, and it was on that bike when I sold it last year with 154K miles and was in just as good condition....crystal-clear and cleans up beautifully. One thing, though: If you get one of these shields, I recommend that you mask-off the lower portion similar to the stock shield and paint the edges (I used black spray paint) and lower forward-facing area.....If not, when the shield is mounted, you'll see (through the shield) the leading edge of the dash upper panel...this is a sharp plastic edge and looks unfinished when viewed from the front thru the shield...The black surface on the stock shield conceals this...ALSO. and more importantly, the edge (thickness) of the shield nearest the headlight, when mounted, will pick up the light from the headlight and, acting like fiber-optics, transmit that light thru the shield and cause the edge all around the shield to "glow" a wonderful white edging....First time I rode at night after installing this shield I couldn't figure what was going on...was very distracting to me, kinda like those chrome door-edge strips I see some guys put on their windshields...(If I can't see through it, it doesn't belong there...Know what I mean ~Willie "Wonka" Kohlenberger

HEY ALL. I went to the car store yesterday to get wax for the 4-wheeler and stumbled onto something. Meguiar's makes a product called "Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish".
Decided to try it on the Cade, I figured on replacing the windshield anyway, so if it didn't work then nothin' lost but 5 bucks that I'd probably blow somewhere else. Well, boys and girls, IT WORKED. Except for a couple of deep scratches, my windshield went from foggy in daylight to 'almost new' clear. I then took her out last night for the "real" test. The change was amazing, from being forced to look over the top to see anything at all, to near perfect vision, even with a line of on-coming headlights. And all I did was (shudder) follow the instructions! Now I can put that money somewhere else on the bike. Like maybe, faring and paint! Am still making list of stuff needed, more on that later. ~Steve Wilker

I had a very slow speed wobble and a wobble when changing lanes but could hold it with a single hand. At 55 mph I was not able to take the hands off the handlebars at all. Took the Forks off and had them reworked. It still had a wobble but not as bad. Still could use any dual hands off riding. Replaced the tires and reworked the bearings (grease etc). That helped till I reached about 85-90 mph. The wobble came back as a slow lane sweeping wobble. Bought the super brace and the steering felt a lot smoother and the wobbles went away. Have taken the bike up to about 130 mph and still had no wobble. Backed off to highway speed and the bike was stable and could be ridden without the hands on the handlebars. I do not recommend this high speed test as a norm. Did a 4000 mile trip and the ride was excellent. Took the old brace to airframe shop and had a friend dye pent the thing. Found many hairline stress cracks that I could not see with the eye before. Many of the cracks were around the mounting holes. I'm very please with the new brace and after the test...I feel I might have found the problem toooooooo late. That is just my 2-cents...you be your own judge. ~Mac, Fallon , NV

I had a very slow speed wobble and a wobble when changing lanes. Bought the super brace and the steering felt a lot smoother and the wobbles went away. ~Red

Last father's day I went down when the front brace broke on my ‘86 and was totaled. 6 ribs broke on me and a bunch of bruising but I’m ok now. I bought mine back from insurance and gathered all the parts and am starting to rebuild. But, I bought the ‘88 to ride in the meantime. Get another and get back on. I'm glad I did it. ~Michael

Ambulance: $475.80 ~ Emergency room: $208.00 ~ Hospital room, 7 day, $8597.00 ~ Emergency Dept: $1501.00 ~ Lab, Radiology: $2449.00 ~ C A T Scan: $3389.00 ~ Misc. drugs, etc: $2914.00 ~ More Radiology: $275.00 ~ Even more Radio: $896.00 ~ Lost work time: $xx,xxx.xx ~ Lost Cade: $3500.00

Lucky me, I had insurance and sick days, but the total is a whole lot more than Tracy's brace at $75.00, In fact, the wonderful PA State troopers were happy to give me a ticket for not having my bike under control. Cost? 3 points and $80.00! Pain felt with 6 broken ribs----- indescribable! As I understand it, Suzuki changed that brace 4 times over the life of the Cade. ~Michael

The cause of the crash was the failure of the fork brace? I was thinking of getting the fork brace to improve performance. However, if this is a failure mechanism, should I replace this due to safety concerns? Thanks ~Bill

I visited Mike after his mishap and can attest to the pain he was in. So I can agree with him the cost of Tracy 's fork brace is worth ever penny. I had one put on in Branson last year and noticed a difference right away. I also will be getting one for the bike I’m building for my son and daughter-in-law before they sit there butts on it. ~Dan

Michael, this is a serious issue indeed. You have suggested a mechanical failure which caused you to fall off. Do you still have the broken brace? The reason I ask is that a metallurgist can examine the brace and tell a lot about why it failed. For instance, if it had a crack that propagated slowly, then there will be more oxidation on the crack face where the failure originated, with steadily less along the crack propagation plane and little or no oxidation where the material failed suddenly just before the crash. We can also determine why a crack started by doing some materials tests. The rocket science business uses these techniques often. If you still have the brace, I will gladly supply the metallurgy expertise, and write up a report for the group and Suzuki on what happened.

Also keep in mind that guys have reported a wobbly front end, especially from carrying a heavy load too far aft. I have to watch this when I am hauling our two backpacks on the trailer hitch platform I built. Is there any way you could have had a front end wobble which caused the crash, which broke the brace? ~Spike

Bill, I didn't even think my bike needed a brace, but I bought one on a whim based on everything > written here last year. When I took it off, the original looked flawless, still does. I installed it anyway. All I can say is WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The bike no longer feels squirrelly when I hit a bump or cross a line during a lane change, and it feels much more stable on curves at speed. Well worth the money. ~Ed

I have to say that I have an 87 and replaced the brace also because of the talk on the group. My original was flawless also. I notice no difference with the new brace. I'm not saying "don't get one" because I do like the idea of having a beefier brace but don't be disappointed if you don't feel a difference after changing it. ~Rick

Well, I wasn't going to reply to the original message from Rick because I felt it would jinx me, but I just turned 121,000 miles with the original brace and have not had a bit of problem with it. I have ridden Deals Gap many times and been on a lot of twisty roads and curves. Perhaps I don't know what a good riding motorcycle should be like in the turns as I have only ridden the Cavalcade for the last 18 years and perhaps the new brace would open my eyes so to speak. But the brace that came with MY motorcycle is fine as far as I can tell and hopefully will take me many more miles. Thanks Rick for expressing the other opinion. ~Tom (1986 LXE in Alabama with the original brace)

Tom, I wish that you were a little closer to me so you could do a "before and after" test. They just seem to make the bike feel more solid. On the low mileage Cade (I doubt anything is worn in the forks) it made a world of difference. The Cade with the sidecar needs a steering damper with the stock brace but not so with the SuperBrace. I might note that Tracy 's brace looks better built than the SuperBrace. ~Jim

Jim, I'm interested in how the brace affected handling on a 3-wheel application. Sounds like it made quite a difference, if you were able to do away with the dampener! I still haven't gotten a new brace for the trike yet - most of the improvement I felt on the bike was during curves & leaning, which of course you don't do on a 3-wheeler. Been wondering if it was needed or not.

However, I recently rebuilt the forks of the trike, using Tracy 's cartridge emulators & Progressive springs, and the difference in ride quality & handling is simply phenomenal on a three wheeler that can't avoid bumps as easily as a two wheeler! ~Ed

Just a few words about fork braces and such... As I have stated many times before, a machined billet brace is not a cure-all for ill front end handling. And, for some riders its effect will be minimal and they might not even notice a difference before and after. That's not a bad thing. There are lots of riders that can't tell you much about the way their bike handles. Unless it's just shaking all over the place or pulling severely or doing something really weird they just don't notice.

On the other hand I've ridden a lot of these bikes and I can tell you in about 2 minutes what's going on with the tires and forks and shocks, steering head bearings, swing arm bearings etc. Some of us know what a bike should handle like and when they ride one that doesn't feel right they know it immediately.

If you bolt on a machined brace and don't notice a difference that's okay. You might also bolt on a set of top-notch Progressive shocks and put cartridge emulators in the forks with Progressive springs and not know the difference between these high end components and the worn out ones that you replaced. Again, that's okay. The machined fork brace, however, performs a much more important function.

The stock brace is a die cast piece of s**t that is made from a low grade zinc alloy junk material. In my opinion, it doesn't deserve the label of fork brace at all but instead should be called a paperweight. It's not worth the dynamite it would take to blow it up. Sorry, but that's just the truth.

Hopefully you'll never know what a piece of crap it is when you're in a 70 MPH off-camber curve getting onto the interstate with your bags loaded and momma on the back and the damn thing breaks and the front end starts wallering around like a pig in slop and the bike spits your asses off and you bounce and flop and roll to a stop 100 feet away and hopefully walk away from it. Anyway, I’m sorry for the length and the language. There are just some things I feel strongly about. ~ Tracy

Guys this is important as all get out: if you have a fork brace that breaks, by all means KEEP IT and have a metallurgist look at it. They can tell us a lot about why and how it happened, specifically: over a number of years or in a day.

If we find it takes years and there are visible cracks before failure, then we all need to inspect the braces regularly. If we find one that fractured in a day with no warning cracks, then we all know what has to happen: every fork brace must be replaced before the bike is safe to ride.

Spike, I have an ‘86 Cade with the thicker brace on it, and after I got it, the first thing I did was to check the fork brace and sure enough it's cracked. If you want it, send me your address and I’ll send it to you. If it can keep only one person from getting hurt its yours ~Dan in PA

YES please do send that. I will inspect and report back to the group on where the crack is located, how it is propagating and whatever other info we can take off of that crack. I have access to a materials lab and a team of experts.

Has anyone else had an actual brace failure? We can add that to the VIN list. Since it is a zinc alloy, I am now wondering if corrosion stress could be a factor: a small crack starts, rainy spring day, left over road salt from the winter sprays up, gets in the crack, zinc alloys are very unforgiving of even a little corrosion stress, crack propagates. ~Spike, 904 La Palma Place , Milpitas CA 95035

I have seen a lot lately about turning the cornering lights into driving lights. Just wondering, with the trouble I and others have had with the regulator/rectifier and the stator, would the added strain of full time running lights, either using the ones there or putting two 55 watt bulbs, put a strain on the charging system? Cause problems sooner than otherwise? ~Hitekrednek

The Cade system, like may bike systems, is a full-on all the time deal for the stator. In other words, the stator is under full load all of the time. The regulator decides how much juice goes to the battery/system and how much is dumped to ground to maintain the required voltage.

So, by adding additional lights (110 watts worth) you aren't really treating the system much different than the load it's seeing right now. There is a limit, of course, that will exceed the available output of the stator and drive the system resistance too low but that's a ways off.

You would have to have the driving lights and some other lights (like bag, trunk, fork etc) all going at the same time to reach that limit. It's all a matter of voltage. If the voltage drops too low when the driving lights are lit (below say 13.5 or so) when at road speed, then that's probably too much load and you need to shut some stuff off or get a more robust stator wind.

I think there are a lot of guys running driving and extra lights that aren't having a problem. Some have the stock wind stator, some have a beefed one. I know that the rewinds I sell from Custom rewind include a little extra wire for a slight increase in output. Willies has one that is wound for higher output but unless you have the need for it, don't put it in. If you can't soak up that extra in lights and such, the regulator will be punished mercilessly. ~ Tracy

yeah I guess you're right! But the problem remains the same voltmeters are not very accurate either I run a LOT of lights. I've got position lights all over the bike plus running light around the saddle bags and the trunk plus oscillating brake light and oscillating "Cylon" type light in the spoiler and I want to convert my cornering light into driving lights and I'm afraid I might draw more power than the stator can handle still an amp meter might let me know ahead of time that my stator is taking a dump. ~Jaurdan

Well, actually, digital voltmeters are quite accurate and there's no need whatsoever to measure amperage draw on an ongoing basis, only system voltage at the battery. Regardless of how many lights you have, the only thing that matters is that the battery is receiving enough voltage to remain properly charged. Sure, you can measure amperage draw of the system for informational purposes but it tells you nothing running down the road.

Unlike old generator systems where the amp gauge would show whether the current was going to or from the battery, a voltmeter gives you the current state of charge of the battery which is what's important. If you see the voltage dropping, you know to turn off some lights as either the stator or the regulator, or both has gone south. That's all that's really important. In some rare cases, the voltage will shoot up past 15 volts and that also indicates a problem with the SCRs in the regulator and you better turn it off before you start to burn something up. An ammeter wouldn't tell you that.

If you want to run a lot lights, you need to match the output of the stator to the load. You can measure the load with an ammeter or simply add it up and see if the stator has enough power (stock Cade is 500 watts). If you exceed that, then you can choose a high output rewind from Willies. ~ Tracy

I have a problem with my headlight modulator. The OK monitor stays on. However, I’ve not had any problem with the monitor having to flash. I installed it before Branson last year and it’s not really a problem with over 12k miles. It works well. I’ve had an idea in my head that I was going to try. I want to add 2 6 ohm (50watt) resistors between the low beam lead and ground. It may fool the sensor in the monitor. What do you think Tracy ? ~Micky

Well, each resistor is going to soak up 37.5 watts at 15 volts so you're adding a 75 watt load to the system. Will that cause the headlight monitor to go out? Maybe!

The problem (I think) is that the modulator on-time isn't sufficient to draw enough amperage to satisfy the okay monitor. If we look at it as a RMS current, then we would have to increase the total current so that the RMS current that the okay monitor sees is enough. That's assuming that the switching speed of the modulator is such that the monitor won't still see the "dips" between the on-off cycles and still show a headlight out condition.

If you put the resistors ahead of the modulator, then that might allow the monitor to see current even during the dips of the modulator. The downside to that is you're adding raw load without any benefit except heat. Maybe you could use the added amperage to power some additional lights (like driving lights) instead of just burning it up as heat in the resistors. That might accomplish the same goal and give you a little extra light. They won't be modulated, but as long as the main bulb is I dunno that it will matter.

Any lights that you power ahead of the modulator will go through a less pronounced flickering because of the up and down current draw of the main bulb.

You will need to make sure you don't overdo it as the diodes in the monitor are only rated at 5 amps and there's a 10 amp fuse in that circuit and you may have to bump that to get it carry the load. So, you may be burning up the headlight diode in the monitor before you pop a fuse.

An alternative might be to disable the headlight monitor by cutting the wire that goes from the monitor box to the display. You will have to experiment a little but you might be able to just cut one wire and have the headlight-out symbol go out. If you unplug the brown connector from the monitor box that should disable all of the monitoring functions. By using a bit of wire and making connection with only one terminal at a time between the monitor box and the mating plug, you might be able to isolate the headlight wire and then simply cut it.

The downside of that, of course, is the loss of “headlight out” indication. ~ Tracy

I bought some new speakers at Wal-Mart a while back and the low end is just a rumble. The mid range and highs are very good. Can't even understand people talking if they have a low voice and bass on music is just garbled. I have tried switching the polarity, just in case I had hooked them up wrong, but that did not help. Any ideas? ~Mike

Speaker quality has something to do with it. Also, since the speakers are mounted free-air, they are not going to handle a lot of bass. You have to realize that a 4" speaker doesn't reproduce low frequencies very well anyway and since you can't really mount them in a sealed enclosure (which helps a small speaker improve tremendously with low frequencies) then they are going to shake and rattle trying to reproduce low frequencies.

You can either turn down the bass some or get better speakers. But, realize that even really good speakers are going to be limited in bass response in a 4" diameter.

You may just be trying to listen to them too loud. The output of the radio in watts is not that great and the distortion level is fairly high when it's cranked up. That's somewhat typical of car radios especially those that are 20 years old. Lower frequencies take a LOT more power then high ones. ~ Tracy

I replaced my old Original speakers last fall due to the fact that they are almost 20 years old with Pioneer 3 1/2" 4ohm 120W and can finally drive them at a level I can hear at 70mph. The original are 4ohm 12W (typed on the back). If you’re trying to replace them look for a speaker that can produce the highest db (decibel) level at 1 watt. i.e.: From Crutchfield: If you plan to drive your speakers with a low-powered factory receiver, you need highly-efficient speakers. Check out the speaker sensitivity to find the most efficient speakers for your vehicle. (For instance, a speaker rated 3 dB higher than another will require half as much power to produce the same output.) ~Scott

Well I would like to make a suggestion about your speaker and or audio needs. I have three teenage sons who have dialed in their rides and have been into quality stereo systems for quite a while now. My youngest son is very good at this sort of thing and has suggested that you should go to >>> www.etronics.com <<< For the best pricing and selection!!
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There is something here for everyone. Hope this helps to dial in those "Tunes" while riding the best bike on the planet! ~Rick, San Diego ’86 LX Brn/Brn

For improved sound, try this; go to your friendly neighborhood plastics dealer and get 2 pictures of 12" X 12" Kydex 1/16" or 3/32" thick. You will then need an old speaker (same size and shape as new), a small wiring grommet, a good pair of gloves, and a large cookie sheet. Pre-heat your oven to 150 deg. and put Kydex on upside down cookie sheet in oven until soft (about 15-20 minutes). Then remove and loosely mold over back of speaker. Mold tightly around mounting areas. Let it cool. You can then trim excess, drill wire access hole, mount grommet, and drill mounting holes to match speaker. I suggest you use small washers to re-enforce mounting holes. I did this on my
old H/D and the improvement in the sound was un-real, and it protects the wire connections from the weather. If you can't find Kydex, most hobby/craft stores carry moldable plastic sheets that are thin enough to work with. And yes I will be doing this to my Cade!! ~Steve Wilker

I just replaced my front tire. Still have a slight vibration between 25-35 mph. More of a wobble!! I need to purchase front fork brace anyway. Don’t know which I if need new, or old. ~Terryg

If it's an 86 LX, then it takes the early style brace. Everything else is a late style.

You need to check that the tire bead is seated all the way around on both sides of the tire. You can check it pretty easy as most tires have some circular marker on the sidewall that you can use as a reference. Make sure that that marker is the same distance from the rim edge all the way around. If there is a spot where it's not, you will have to deflate the tire and use some lubricant on that area (like Armorial or equal) and re-air it to pop the bead in place. I had a set of tires mounted the other day and when I got ready to put them on I noticed that about 1/4 of the bead on one side was not fully seated. It helps to whack the tire with a rubber or dead blow mallet with as you air it.

The other things are steering head bearings (lots of them are just dry as a bone without any grease at all), swing arm bearings, proper tightening of the assembly (axle, pinch clamp, fork brace), fork condition (fluid level), wheel condition (bent), etc. All can have an impact. However, I would check the bead first. ~ Tracy

I run Dunlops 491's elite 11with 40lb. in the front and 40lb. in the rear. I found that if I run less than 40lb in the front it wobbles a little and the front end is a little "squirrelly" I also have a Tracy fork brace, which helped considerably. Hope this helps you out. -- -Joe, in PA

Personally, I ran my Dunlops 36 front and 40-42 rear. I never had any problem with any sort of wobble unless I instigated it with a rap to the handlebars (I don't recommend that practice). Towards the end of their life, the amount of wobble I could introduce with a smack to the bars was rather unnerving. It didn't start as much but quickly escalated to a potential tankslapper if not arrested.

Since putting on the Avons, I can't induce a continuing wobble at all. It quickly damps out and runs true.

I'm sure that the wear on the Dunlop (cupped out on the edges) was part of why I was able to do that since new ones don't act like that. I think that's probably true of a lot of tires as they get to end of their useful tread life they will start handling funny.

Air pressure is a tire brand issue. What works for one brand will not work for another. Read the side of the tire to get the proper pressures. With Avons, I run 40' in front and 50' in rear. ~ Tracy

87 LXE 35,779 mi as of 7/23/05 ~ Avon Venom X tires this year ~ Honda Rotor Covers ~ Cade caliper covers ~ Front fender rail ~ SS front & back brake lines ~ Hydraulic brake and clutch switches ~ Chrome "S" reservoir covers ~ Braided clutch and brake levers ~ Recovered black & blue seat, back rests, & head rest ~ Utopia back rest ~ NOT corked (still dry) ~ Some extras to the successful bidder. ~ $4000 or BO ~ I also reserve the right to NOT accept too low an offer.

Kenz Hemi Blue Harley Cade… asking $4000. Contact KennG kgdd@rochester.rr.com OR (315) 781-2356.

'87 LX for sale. Needs minor work, but is complete and ride-able. Has most all factory options plus a few extras. Two tone gold. 58K miles. Contact me for more info. Most of us know what the bike is worth. $2500 is asking price, but for anyone thru here I'll take $2000. "Jack Erekson" caderinnv@yahoo.com

I need to sell my '86 Cade GT. It is a great motorcycle. It truly only has 23000 original miles on it and has been garaged since it was new. It has a couple of minor scratches on it but is almost like show room quality. It runs excellent and has no problems. If you know any one who is interested in a great bike for a great price have them email me please! I need $3200.00 for it. See the pictures of it under Photos/Glen's ~Glen gdearl@earthlink.net

It's with regret that I sell my Cade but I've put less than 3k miles in 2 yrs. It's a shame that is just sitting in the shed. The bike is blue on blue and has the silver lines as Jay's bike only single not double like his. ~ The bike has 57K miles and everything works it's the GXE. Has no leaks and is ready to ride anywhere. When I bought it I replaced the tires ( Avon ) the windshield (Slip Streamer) the battery (made by Yuasa), Clutch cable, air and gas filter etc. Rear brake pads etc. That was all that it needed. Most importantly the dreaded seal in the secondary has also been replaced successfully with no leaks. (Bike has the thick shaft.) Also moved the handlebars to the rear. It has a trailer hitch, trunk rack and extra foot pegs, otherwise it's original, even the mufflers. Radio, cruise control, etc everything works. While in my care I broke the plastic map thinghie but I have the parts to put together. Also the original seat has some cracks in the seams on the driver side. ~Carlos. <elbakan1@juno.com>

Cade for Sale - $3,900.00 86 Blue on Blue LXE 69K miles. Like new condition – no scratches

Heel & toe shifter, driver back rest, trailer hitch, etc. Always garaged. Two helmets w/ intercom included, one XL, one medium and full bike storage cover. Everything works except the CB. Will need new front tire soon, rear is in good shape. Located in Carrollton , TX Email dailysr@gmail.com Cell Phone 972-345-4584

1986 Suzuki cavalcade LXE 1400 v4 touring, blue on blue trophy winner with only 28,500 miles. And color matched hardtop camper. The LXE is in excellent condition, garaged, adult owned, all maintenance records are available. This one has it all…standard equipment includes: air seats, auto leveling, cruise control, am/fm, cassette, 4 speaker surround, CB, intercom, full lowers with vents, chrome light bar with cornering lamps, adjustable passenger backrest, headrest and floorboards, passenger audio controls. Added accessories: chrome luggage rack, chrome front fender rail, chrome saddle bag rails , chrome front brake caliper and rotor covers, chrome clutch and brake levers, chrome side stand, rider floorboards, chrome “progressive suspension” rear shocks, “progressive suspension” front springs, chrome auxiliary brake lights (2), “Hartco” lambskin seat covers, marker lights (6), chrome “Fiam” horns (very loud), trailer hitch, “baker” windshield wings, trunk organizer, cushion grips, drink holder, mud flap with cavalcade logo, handlebar bag, wide angle spot mirrors, daytime running lights, cigarette lighter. This bike needs nothing and is ready to ride anywhere. It has new tires and battery, current Texas license and inspection. It has just been completely serviced including brake and clutch systems flushed and fluid changed, antifreeze changed, oil and oil filter changed, primary and final gear oil changed, the carburetors balanced, all electrical and electronic accessories checked and serviced. The Hartco seat cover is not hiding anything; the seats are like brand new. At 25,000 miles there was extensive preventive maintenance performed which includes: replaced engine to primary seal, replaced transmission output seal, replaced driveshaft, rebuilt all calipers, rebuilt clutch slave cylinder, rebuilt front and rear master cylinders, rebuilt clutch master cylinder, changed fork oil. The bike has the original tool kit and owners manual. Also included is a shop / service manual and original cavalcade soft luggage for the trunk and saddlebags. The trailer is also in excellent condition and is done in dark blue to match bike. It can be used as a cargo trailer or as a camper with two bunks or a queen size bed. It sleeps 6 foot plus with room to spare, it has 4 stabilizer jacks, is fully carpeted, has a mounted spare, luggage rack, and comes with a “gander mountain” 10’ x 12’ chute tent that attaches to camper and makes a big living / dressing area. This trailer pulls great at any speed. The bike is a show winner with lots of trophies to prove it. This is not a “garage queen”; most miles have been put on it touring all over Texas and to places as far away as Yosemite in California and the Blue Ridge in North Carolina . It has been ridden through rain, snow in the mountains and lots of hot Texas weather and has been rock solid reliable. $4500 Terry Simank" tsimank@ev1.net

After much mental debate, I have decided to sell my Cavalcade. 1986 LXE, 24,900 miles, Brown, Trailer Hitch (Installed at Americade, but never used). It has a few other goodies, and some extra parts. Some of you will probably remember my bike from Americade in 01 and 02.

I live in case anyone wants to come by for a look. The bike has been well cared for, and is in great shape. I will email pictures and answer questions- cmonges@snet.net Asking $4,000

1986 LX that is FOR SALE and no reasonable offer will be refused! The body parts are in great shape the seat has a small split in the seam wear the driver sits and the radio only gets one station. The motor runs very strong and burns no oil, it has 59, 000 miles on it and still looks very good, but I did have that problem with the two small negative wires, which seem to be good now! ~BIG BILL, email: live2ride@tmlp.com

I have a beautiful 86LXE blue on blue for sale. No time to ride. Only 36k. Just put new tires on it. There are no tears or dents on this bike. Mint shape ready to ride.3500 dollars. You can reach me 603 256 8285 or tazmantimm@yahoo.com